Buy Reliance Controls TTV2005C Panel/Link 36-Circuit 200 Amp Utility/50 Amp Generator Transfer Switch For Up To 12,500-Watt GeneratorsReliance Controls TTV2005C Panel/Link 36-Circuit 200 Amp Utility/50 Amp Generator Transfer Switch For Up To 12,500-Watt Generators Product Description:
- 50 to 200 Amp utility subpanel for use with 12,500-watt generators
- Capable of replacing standard, full 200 Amp service panel
- Features heavy-duty copper bus
- Includes a 200 Amp main circuit breaker interlinked with 30 Amp to 125 Amp generator circuit breaker
- 5-year limited warranty
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
9 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
By Bernd H. Blanke
This panel was installed in a new house. It works fine with line power from the power pole, just like any other 200 Amp Utility Subpanel. What I like about the generator hookup is that it's simple and straight forward. It only costs 3 times as much as a non-generator panel.My prior research into using a backup generator showed me that if you do it the "usual way" (as presented by backup system makers and sellers), it will cost a fortune, as you have to buy specialized cables and boxes, and you will have to have it installed by an electrician who may not know anything about this unless he reads the instructions like you would. I discovered this by visiting with a number of electrical contractors - I was amazed at their ignorance in this area.This particular panel hooks up to utility power just like other panels of its kind. To hook up the generator, I built a small "house" (4' Height, 4' Width, 3' Depth, large enough to comfortably fit generators up to 12,500 Watts, and 12' away from the house). I buried a 10 gauge 4-wire line from the panel to the generator house, ending in a 4-prong twist-lock plug that fits the 240V generator receptacle (this receptacle shows the plug's part number). The "normal" way, a plug would cost $60-80, the cable $280+, a separate 'inside' sub-box costing anywhere from $400 to $2,000 (from manual to fancy automatic operation) and an outside box for another $140. At Home Depot, the plug was $18, the cable $40 for 20 feet plus $12 for the gray PVC pipe and pipe fittings to bury the cable. The cable is easily wired to the inside panel as per the Reliance panel's instructions. We had no problem with the electrical inspector.The "normal" way, you can only hook up entire circuits in your house, like the kitchen circuit or the bathroom circuit. You have no individual choices for any specific items you need to run during a power outage. We listed all lights and appliances with their individual watt requirements. We selected what we needed, made sure that the total Watts were below the generator's capacity (including 25 percent extra "surge" Watts for items that were motorized in any way - like a refrigerator or window AC). Our final list includes everything we need power for that stays witin the total generator Watt limit. We use individual oil-filled heaters in specific rooms for heat, as central heating requires tons of Watts. Unless you have individual window AC units like we do, your central AC will also most likely be beyond the Watt limit, and you will have to suffer.When we have a power outage, we shut off everything that has a switch, meaning the refrigerator/freezer stays on, and one light (60 Watt or less) per room. Then we only use what is on our list - No Problemo!The Reliance Control Panel has a mechanical interlock between line power and generator power. This means that when one is switched on, the other is forced off. There is no way you can fry your generator, nor can you crossfeed into the utility lines to fry some poor lineman down the road who is trying to fix the electrical outage.
0 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
By Mike
Just as advertised. Arrived within a day or 2 of the order.Great price. Other sites wanted close to $500.Can't beat the free shipping.Have not installed it yet so I can't review the product itself.
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