Buy Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit With Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, And Power Inlet Box For Up To 7,500-Watt GeneratorsReliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit With Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, And Power Inlet Box For Up To 7,500-Watt Generators Product Description:
- 10-circuit, 30 Amp transfer switch for enabling generator
- For use with 7500-watt generator with NEMA L14-20 or L14-30 power outlets
- Includes 30 Amp 10-circuit prewired loadside reliance transfer switch with wattmeters
- Includes 30 Amp 10-foot generator power cord, extra L14-20 cord end
- CUL1008 listed; 5-year warranty
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
139 of 141 people found the following review helpful.
By Mark P
Well, I needed one of these and checked out both this and GenTran products as a KIT.My conclusions:If you're a not so experienced DIY (and even if you are), I think I'd get the Reliance. If you have more experience, you *MIGHT* want the Gentran if your really careful.Here is why:The Reliance unit has all 10 circuits PRE-WIRED and clearly marked, fool proof. No need to add circuit wires for more circuits. The Gentran comes with 6 prewired clearly marked circuits, BUT if you want 10, you need to add your own wiring. Believe me, people could mess this up.In my reading, the majority of folks use or wish they had 10 circuits available from go, GET a 10 circuit model unless you are only doing a really small cabin or something.Now the GenTran KIT has an advantage in that you can "customize" the circuit breaker selections to suit your needs. For example, you can choose how many extra 15 or 20 amp circuits you want in any combination. And if you really needed to run a 30 amp load, you could put a standard 30 amp breaker in this and run it (I would not do the 30 Amp due to load balancing issues but it could be done).You can't do this with the Reliance KIT as it has its own special breakers in it. People claim that having standard breakers is the only way to go. I say this is nice, but it's likely over rated in this situation. First, how often do breakers go bad? It does happen, but it's not likely to happen on a Gen unit that you use only on occasion in most cases. Can the Reliance brekers be changed? I don't know but I would think so but you would have to order them I guess to have on hand.Reliance DOES offer a non-KIT unit that uses standard breakers if you are up for that.Now the main reason I'd go Reliance and NOT GenTran here is because of a safety concern I have noted.The GenTran install instructions show that you are ABONDONING the breakers that will go into the transfer panel. Well, this my friends could kill somebody!!!!Here's how: The circuits you move to the transfer panel are abandoned in the main panel. This means that to shut them off, you now need to shut them off from the transfer panel. If people LEAVE THE ABONDONED breakers in the main panel, even a qualified electrician might overlook the transfer panel, go to work on a circuit labeled in the main panel by shutting off that abandoned breaker, only to find that the circuit is still live maybe after their heart already stopped!Yes, really safe people would shut off the main breaker, but many people could miss this little tid bit and if you're not in the habit of testing wires even after you popped a breaker, you could kill yourself with a zap of 120!You MUST know that the transfer circuits are now only controlled from the Transfer panel breaker and NOT the main panel!!!NOT GOOD! The reliance kit does not have this problem. All breakers are still controlled from the MAIN panel.Next, the GenTran "operation" is not the easiest thing to remember. First shut off all breakers in the transfer panel, then start & plug in generator, then turn on main, then turn on circuits, Oh, if you had some trans circuits off while on Gen, you need to turn those back on when utility power come back, after shutting off the Transfer main...err what? I'm confused.Reliance is goof-proof. Start your generator, plug in, switch on your circuits from LINE to GEN, DONE. Utility power comes back, switch them back. YOU CAN'T mess it up.For me, Reliance wins for these reasons, it's GOOF PROOF. And, if I want standard breakers, you can get a reliance unit that takes them. (but not as a kit, so it will cost more for all items)Cost wise, the GenTran is like $30 cheaper, not worth the possible safty problem.Thanks,MP
77 of 77 people found the following review helpful.
By Kenneth Marcum
I purchased this outstanding transfer switch from "HomedepotDOTcom" for $359.99 as it was on backorder nearly everywhere else. Shipping took just three days to my address.What's in the box:You will receive a pre-wired 10 circuit transfer switch with a long enough pig-tail to allow it to be mounted to the left or right side of your existing control center (breaker panel), a 10ft 30amp extension cord for your 120/240 volt generator outlet, 4 red wire connectors and 10 yellow wire connectors, a demonstrative DVD and a printed installation and operating instructions manual. You'll also find a 30amp remote inlet box to mount inside or outside your home and a 20amp adaptor plug to use for generators up to 5000 watts. The transfer switch includes two watt meters so you can monitor your watt usage per side to ensure equal power balance.Note: The bottom four breakers in this transfer switch are linked side by side via metal ties (When you flip one of these linked breakers to the "Gen" position, you are actually turning on two breakers at once, one on each side of the transfer switch). These are for circuits in your home that may require 240v service, such as some electric stoves or clothes dryers. If you do not have a need for 240v service, you can simply remove these metal ties and use the breakers individually.What's NOT included that I will need for installation:You will need a length of 10 gauge building wire (4 wires total including ground wire) long enough to run from your remote inlet box location to your transfer switch, and possibly conduit to run the building wire through (depending on your local code). Remember to buy a little extra wire (at least 1 foot extra) to insure you have plenty of wire at both ends of your connection (transfer switch and remote inlet box) to do your splicing.Note: For anyone who may have concern about aesthetics (how it may look on a finished interior wall), this transfer switch does have both a flush mount kit and a door/cover kit available. Both kits can be obtained from various suppliers and are around $20 to $30 each at current prices.What tools will I need:You will need a drill with small boring bits or hole saw (if you're mounting your remote inlet box outside), masonry drill bits and screws (if mounting your transfer switch or inlet box on concrete or masonry walls), wire cutters, wire strippers or utility knife, hammer, phillips and standard screw drivers (depending on mounting screws), white tape to write on (identifying desired circuits within your MAIN breaker panel), circuit tester, flashlight, plastic wall anchors and screws (if you're mounting your switch or inlet box on drywall). You may also wish to have a tube of caulk and caulking gun handy if you're mounting your inlet box outside. Caulking around the hole you drilled in your exterior wall to run your wire through before you mount your inlet box will help keep the weather and bugs out.How long will installation take:This depends on your abilities. It took me a little over an hour from start to finish with testing the system. I have electrical experience, but anyone with even basic electrical knowledge can do this installation. Worst case scenario; set aside about three to four hours for installation including circuit mapping.Note: "Mapping" is simply a method of determining which circuits you want to run and how to best balance them for optimal and equal power (load) between the two sides of your transfer switch.How difficult is the installation:On a scale of one to ten, I would say about a three or four. The instructions and included demonstrative DVD video are straight forward and easy to comprehend. The wires from the transfer switch are all well marked and legible. The most difficult part is determining what circuits are vital to you during a power outage as you only have ten to divvy up. Once you read the instructions, you will see that the installation will be about as simple and fool-proof as you can get.How does this transfer switch work (for the layman):Here is an example of just one typically wired transfer circuit: A circuit that runs your refrigerator is supplied power by a breaker in your main panel. A wire comes off that breaker, feeds through the wall to the outlet that you plug your refrigerator into. When you use this transfer switch, you will remove the black wire from the refrigerator's supply breaker in your main panel and replace it with one of the marked red wires from the transfer switch panel. Then, tie the black wire you just removed from that breaker to the similarly marked black wire from the transfer switch (if you put a red wire marked "A" from the transfer switch into the refrigerator's breaker, you will connect the wire you removed from that breaker to the black wire also marked "A" from the transfer switch). When you are running power off of the grid, the breaker on your transfer switch will be switched to the "line" position, meaning, your transfer switch is merely acting like a bridge, allowing the grid power to pass from the breaker in your main panel, through the transfer switch, and into the circuit that feeds your refrigerator. In a power outage, you will plug your generator into the transfer switch via the 120/240 volt extension cord and start it up (allow it to warm up for a minute or two). You will then go to your transfer switch panel and move the circuit breaker that feeds your refrigerator from the "line" position to the "Gen" position. When you do this, you are disconnecting the line between your main panel's breaker and the transfer switch, which breaks the circuit to your refrigerator. At the same time, you are simultaneously connecting the line from your generator through your transfer switch to your refrigerator, completing the circuit and restoring power. The transfer switch, when running off your generator, blocks the passage of electricity to your main panel by simply bypassing it... This is why you DO NOT have to shut off any breakers in your main panel, including the MAIN breaker. This makes running your home off of your generator not only safe for you, your appliances and your generator in eliminating any accidental overloading of circuits, but also protects any linemen who may be working on the power lines from possible electrocution from YOUR generator by backfeeding.What can I run with this transfer switch:This is dependent on the output of your generator. In my situation, I have a 5500/6500 watt max portable generator that easily runs a refrigerator, small chest freezer, gas stove/oven with digital readout, well pump, furnace, ½ hp garage door opener, washing machine, computer network and internet, televisions, cable boxes and almost all of our low watt lighting. Bare in mind that these items must be divided up equally, based on wattage consumption, between the two sides of the transfer switch and that it is very unlikely that these items will ever be operating all at once.How do I know, and what do I do when the power comes back on:Leaving a light or radio turned on and plugged into an outlet that is not fed through the transfer switch is the best notification method of main power restoration that I have found (even if you have to run an extension cord from the dead outlet and put the light/radio in your bedroom at night). When that light or radio comes on, you'll know you can go to your transfer switch panel and move all the switches from "Gen" back to "Line", turn off the generator, unplug the extension cord and put everything away - and wait for the next outage. It's that simple! Just a flip of a few switches on your transfer panel and you're back on the grid. No need to even open the main panel's door.Obvious info:Though it's wise to have a flashlight handy during installation, the instructions tell you to power down your main panel by shutting off the MAIN breaker before removing the cover, and from then on, you'll need a flashlight to work by... Well, not necessarily. Obviously, you have a generator - right? Why not use it to power a work light to brighten your circuit panel and work area? That's what I did, and it worked perfectly. It will also power your plug-in drill if you do not have a cordless one.One final note:Owning this transfer switch to power your home in an outage can result in unexpected guests if you're the only home in your neighborhood with power. This can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on how you look at it! In a power outage, we have been known to have as many as eight to ten guests seeking lights, televisions and working toilets (we all have well pumps and septic tanks). We consider this a good thing as it turns a power outage into a party!! :)I highly recommend this top quality transfer switch from Reliance Controls for price, ease of installation, and the peace-of-mind it gives you during any power outage.As with all my reviews, the above is only my opinion or observation of an item that I own or have tested. Consider that it is possible that I may have either purchased/tested a faulty unit or an exceptionally good one. Your experience may differ from mine, better or worse. Paying attention to the up or down trend from several reviewers will help you make an educated decision on whether or not the item is for you.Best of Luck!!
45 of 48 people found the following review helpful.
By J. S. Edwards
This is an excellent product. It was easy to install and easy to use. I chose this product because some of the competing products have more wiring involved and it is possible to backfeed house power into your generator. With this switch panel, that unhappy outcome is impossible. I strongly recomend this product.
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